Yesterday I went on the "unofficial" CIEE trip to the Museum of Afro Brazilian Art with my Brazilian Culture professor Wilson Honoria da Silva.
Wilson is a self identified Queer, Black, Marxist and brings the race, class and gender critique that I'm used to on the daily.Formally, he's an art theorist focusing predominately on film. I appreciate Wilson because not only is he brilliant but he also cares so deeply about what he studies that he doesn't care who is makes uncomfortable (and he makes a lot of people uncomfortable). Intellectually, being here has been quite the change from Macalester--Wilson is like a little slice of home on tough days.
The Museum of Afro-Brazilian Art is in Ibiraquera Park, a huge park near Avenida Paulista full of people working on their fitness. The Museum is hidden in some trees and mostly unlabeled, which says a lot about the role of the museum in the city.
The museum is wonderful.
It's full of art, photography and artifacts capturing the history of Black and Indigenous people in the country. There's also a huge exhibit called "From King to Obama," which features a ton of Obama gear. There is another exhibit of pieces from the United States which was brought to São Paulo by Donna Wells who was a curator at Howard University. I believe Wilson said the goal was to create a space to explore the differences and similarities between North American and Brazilian Black art without mixing them all up. For some reason seeing the pieces from the United States in that context was very comforting for me. And the two bodies of work co-existed so perfectly that I was reminded of how universal art really is.
Also, while in that particular exhibit I literally stumbled upon a Kara Walker installation created just for the museum. It was surreal to actually get to see something of Kara Walker's but in Brazil...and on accident. The piece was smaller and not as graphic as the ones I had seen in books. It was still exciting to finally see one in person and maybe better that it wasn't hyped up and super controversial. In fact, people seemed to hardly know who Kara Walker was.
Last night I went out with Olivia and some of her friends (very cool people). Her boyfriend Raul's band, Liberta and a another band, The Forgotten Boys were playing at a club named Inferno on Rua August. Rua Augusta is an extremely hip street.There,I saw the densest population of hipsters that I've probably ever seen in my life.It was a nice change from the "orange county chic" style that seems to be what is considered hot here.
I danced all night, resisting an incredible urge to mosh(don't know where that came from). We ended the night at 5am.
I have three more days here in São Paulo and I feel like it's coming at a good time. I'm feeling good about São Paulo but ready for the beach and a slower pace.I'd like to return before I leave Brazil but maybe that fact will change once I get to Salvador: )
This was a long one. Thanks for hanging in there.
Beijos.
Bimbola
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Lull
I'm starting Sunday morning with a whole bunch of indie-rock from the good ole U.S of A. I like Brazilian music but I miss knowing the words to songs--and what they mean.
Last night we went to a soccer game. São Paulo was playing Rio Claro and Olivia gave me a snazzy fan shirt that I received many compliments on. The game could have been fun. But once again, rain ruins everything especially if you already don't like sports.
There was this section of die hard fans that were almost more interesting than the game. They looked like they were having fun even when it started raining. They didn't even put on ponchos. They just drummed harder and jumped higher.
After the game we walked maybe a mile to the bus stop and then rode the bus to the metro and from the metro I payed a taxi driver too much to get us lost.
I got home around 11:30 and called it a night.
I won't lie, I felt pretty lame but I just haven't had much desire to go out this weekend.
It could be that I'm spending way more money than I expected and I haven't even paid my cellphone bill yet.
It could be that the people here are too fashionable and I sort of just want to go out in jeans and a t-shirt.
I'm not sweating it though. As Andrew Bird says, "Being alone, it can be quite romantic, like Jacques Cousteau underneath the Atlantic."
I'd like to paint today, so I think that I'll go do that.
Bimbola
Last night we went to a soccer game. São Paulo was playing Rio Claro and Olivia gave me a snazzy fan shirt that I received many compliments on. The game could have been fun. But once again, rain ruins everything especially if you already don't like sports.
There was this section of die hard fans that were almost more interesting than the game. They looked like they were having fun even when it started raining. They didn't even put on ponchos. They just drummed harder and jumped higher.
After the game we walked maybe a mile to the bus stop and then rode the bus to the metro and from the metro I payed a taxi driver too much to get us lost.
I got home around 11:30 and called it a night.
I won't lie, I felt pretty lame but I just haven't had much desire to go out this weekend.
It could be that I'm spending way more money than I expected and I haven't even paid my cellphone bill yet.
It could be that the people here are too fashionable and I sort of just want to go out in jeans and a t-shirt.
I'm not sweating it though. As Andrew Bird says, "Being alone, it can be quite romantic, like Jacques Cousteau underneath the Atlantic."
I'd like to paint today, so I think that I'll go do that.
Bimbola
Thursday, January 21, 2010
It's been a very rainy week.
Last night I went to to see my friend Maurício's band play at a little bar in Vida Madelena (the bohemian neighborhood). The ensemble included a Mandolin, a guitar, some percussion, a flute and female vocals occasionally. All of the musicians were extremely talented.
On that note, Mauricio is a star on the Mandolin and at the age of 22, I think a prodigy. During the show it rained and rained and after, it was pouring so hard that we couldn't leave. No worries though, I returned home safely.
It's true that you need a connection to access cool people and places in this enormous city(a Brazilian girl told me this). Maurício has a plethora of friends and acquaintances and they're almost all artists of some sort (dancers, film makers, painters, other musicians). His best friend happens to be studying Afro-Brazilian History and dropped a lot of history on Salvador last night. It was all in Portuguese but surprisingly I understood most of it.
On Tuesday night I met a group of Brazilians who had all spent some time in The States(random places like Texas and Oklahoma) and spoke English which made it easier for me to prove that I actually had a personality.
For some reason they knew a ton about Missouri. One guy asked me about Silver Dollar City and then told me he had been there. I think only my Missouri friends will understand how ridiculous that is.
Mostly it's exciting that I've been able to find people like me in this city of 10 million people. I'm only here for two more weeks but I'm glad that I'm starting to feel genuinely comfortable in São Paulo. Beijos.
-B
Last night I went to to see my friend Maurício's band play at a little bar in Vida Madelena (the bohemian neighborhood). The ensemble included a Mandolin, a guitar, some percussion, a flute and female vocals occasionally. All of the musicians were extremely talented.
On that note, Mauricio is a star on the Mandolin and at the age of 22, I think a prodigy. During the show it rained and rained and after, it was pouring so hard that we couldn't leave. No worries though, I returned home safely.
It's true that you need a connection to access cool people and places in this enormous city(a Brazilian girl told me this). Maurício has a plethora of friends and acquaintances and they're almost all artists of some sort (dancers, film makers, painters, other musicians). His best friend happens to be studying Afro-Brazilian History and dropped a lot of history on Salvador last night. It was all in Portuguese but surprisingly I understood most of it.
On Tuesday night I met a group of Brazilians who had all spent some time in The States(random places like Texas and Oklahoma) and spoke English which made it easier for me to prove that I actually had a personality.
For some reason they knew a ton about Missouri. One guy asked me about Silver Dollar City and then told me he had been there. I think only my Missouri friends will understand how ridiculous that is.
Mostly it's exciting that I've been able to find people like me in this city of 10 million people. I'm only here for two more weeks but I'm glad that I'm starting to feel genuinely comfortable in São Paulo. Beijos.
-B
Monday, January 18, 2010
Bijoux
Today I only had morning Portuguese class so at eleven I went home for lunch ( which included a DELICIOUS Moroccan chicken dish and the most perfect mango my lips have ever touched) and then I decided to take a little outing on my own. The destination was Rua 25 de Marzo, a street famous for being a place where you can buy anything and everything for cheap. Apparently around Christmas it's so packed that cars cant even drive through.
I went in search of a bag smaller than my backpack and bigger than my purse to put my school stuff in. In order to get there I first walk 15 minutes to the subway, transfer lines and it took my straight there. Once at Rua 25 de Marzo,(after a bit of walking to find the exact street) I paced the streets for hours. It was weird, there were hundreds of vendors selling more or less the same things. I can't tell you how many stores with "Bijoux" in the name and millions of rhinestone accessories inside I found. Imagine if every single dollar store in the world was put on one street.
Also, a lot of stores had a minimum purchase rule. So there would be a sign saying that you had to spend a minimum of 50 Reais, for example.
I mean, really? Why would I want 27 dollars worth of lame hair clips and cheap bracelets?
All in all, there was a lot of stuff but nothing that I wanted. It was very difficult to find a classic and practical bag among so many jeweled and patent leather accessories. Also, things were cheaper than at the mall, but not necessarily a good buy. I've found this to be mostly true everywhere here. Today in class we learned about how filthy rich Sao Paulo is. Really. Filthy rich. Somewhere in this city someone is bathing nude in blood diamonds.
That's probably why nothing is a good buy. Because most of the people here don't care about deals.
After I left Rua 25 de Marzo(several hours later) I got on the subway and headed back home. I decided to try a different route from the subway and ended up very lost and having to catch a cab(he actually ended up driving like a block too far up from where I needed to get off, so I had to walk a ways to my house anyway.)
I told my host mom and Sophia that I went to Rua 25 de Marzo and they were all, "You went by yourself?!" Which is interesting considering it's the only place where I wasn't hit on by an old creeper.
I told them that It wasn't crowded or scary. Just tacky. I have quite a bit of homework tonight so I'll be starting that. I'm pretty exhausted from the day. I can't say it was great, but it was definitely worthwhile. Beijos.
I went in search of a bag smaller than my backpack and bigger than my purse to put my school stuff in. In order to get there I first walk 15 minutes to the subway, transfer lines and it took my straight there. Once at Rua 25 de Marzo,(after a bit of walking to find the exact street) I paced the streets for hours. It was weird, there were hundreds of vendors selling more or less the same things. I can't tell you how many stores with "Bijoux" in the name and millions of rhinestone accessories inside I found. Imagine if every single dollar store in the world was put on one street.
Also, a lot of stores had a minimum purchase rule. So there would be a sign saying that you had to spend a minimum of 50 Reais, for example.
I mean, really? Why would I want 27 dollars worth of lame hair clips and cheap bracelets?
All in all, there was a lot of stuff but nothing that I wanted. It was very difficult to find a classic and practical bag among so many jeweled and patent leather accessories. Also, things were cheaper than at the mall, but not necessarily a good buy. I've found this to be mostly true everywhere here. Today in class we learned about how filthy rich Sao Paulo is. Really. Filthy rich. Somewhere in this city someone is bathing nude in blood diamonds.
That's probably why nothing is a good buy. Because most of the people here don't care about deals.
After I left Rua 25 de Marzo(several hours later) I got on the subway and headed back home. I decided to try a different route from the subway and ended up very lost and having to catch a cab(he actually ended up driving like a block too far up from where I needed to get off, so I had to walk a ways to my house anyway.)
I told my host mom and Sophia that I went to Rua 25 de Marzo and they were all, "You went by yourself?!" Which is interesting considering it's the only place where I wasn't hit on by an old creeper.
I told them that It wasn't crowded or scary. Just tacky. I have quite a bit of homework tonight so I'll be starting that. I'm pretty exhausted from the day. I can't say it was great, but it was definitely worthwhile. Beijos.
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Lição
I spent basically all afternoon doing this absurdly tedious homework packet for Portuguese class.I just finished.I don't think that I'm exaggerating when I say that no homework has ever taken me that long. It doesn't feel that satisfying.
-B
-B
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Mosquitos biting my legs.
This morning I walked myself to the CIEE office
where I have my 4 hour Portuguese class. It's about a 15 minute walk
and the street that I have to walk the longest on is incredibly steep.
In fact, so steep that you can't see the top. The trek was definitely a struggle,but then I arrived sweating and exhausted and felt so accomplished.
I'll say it again: I love my 4 hour Portuguese class.
I didn't think it was possible but it flies by.
For lunch we went to a restaurant where they charge you by how much your plate weighs. They're pretty popular. The meat here is really good. I'm not a huge meat person but once again the meat here is delicious. Especially the beef. Oh and I had great lemon mousse.
The afternoon Brazilian culture lecture was substantially better today. I could actually understand a lot of what he was saying. I don't know if I'm getting better or it was just a clearer lecture.
I think I'm getting better.
After class, Fernanda one of the CIEE workers who is actually only 22 and a student at the University here, took me to her mom's dentist where there were the best dressed receptionists that I've ever seen. The dentist was an incredibly sweet lady with a cute little blond braid. She also spoke English which was helpful. She fixed my tooth (a fractured filling) and cleaned my teeth for 150 Reais which is like 80 dollars maybe.I didn't even need anesthesia. Then she gave Fernanda and me the little toothpaste tubes. She might be the best dentist I've ever had.
Fernanda just dropped me off back at home in a taxi.
I know it's still really early but I get why Americans come here and
just stay. It's been one of those days where you come home really happy. The mosquitos are out to play but I feel good. Beijos!
where I have my 4 hour Portuguese class. It's about a 15 minute walk
and the street that I have to walk the longest on is incredibly steep.
In fact, so steep that you can't see the top. The trek was definitely a struggle,but then I arrived sweating and exhausted and felt so accomplished.
I'll say it again: I love my 4 hour Portuguese class.
I didn't think it was possible but it flies by.
For lunch we went to a restaurant where they charge you by how much your plate weighs. They're pretty popular. The meat here is really good. I'm not a huge meat person but once again the meat here is delicious. Especially the beef. Oh and I had great lemon mousse.
The afternoon Brazilian culture lecture was substantially better today. I could actually understand a lot of what he was saying. I don't know if I'm getting better or it was just a clearer lecture.
I think I'm getting better.
After class, Fernanda one of the CIEE workers who is actually only 22 and a student at the University here, took me to her mom's dentist where there were the best dressed receptionists that I've ever seen. The dentist was an incredibly sweet lady with a cute little blond braid. She also spoke English which was helpful. She fixed my tooth (a fractured filling) and cleaned my teeth for 150 Reais which is like 80 dollars maybe.I didn't even need anesthesia. Then she gave Fernanda and me the little toothpaste tubes. She might be the best dentist I've ever had.
Fernanda just dropped me off back at home in a taxi.
I know it's still really early but I get why Americans come here and
just stay. It's been one of those days where you come home really happy. The mosquitos are out to play but I feel good. Beijos!
B
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Eu adoro
I moved in with my host family this week. My host mom is a journalist. Her name is Nelcy. I also have two host sisters Olivia (18) and Sophia (21). Sophia has a boyfriend named Ricardo who I consider my host brother. I adore my host siblings. They are hilarious and in general good company. They've really gone out of their way to make me feel comfortable. We've been speaking in English which I know is bad, but it was really important to me to establish a relationship with them first. We'll start with Portuguese this week for sure. I've asked Nelcy to start speaking to me in Portuguese and she does. Then I look confused. And she repeats it. Then she repeats it again in English.
They live in a beautiful peach and teal home with a garden in the front. Their house is full of art and contemporary furniture and the kitchen has 50's style black and white tile. My room is small but very comfortable (Barbie sheets!). I have a wonderful view of rooftops from my window and there's also a pomegranate tree (too far to reach).
Today was my first day of class. I love my Portuguese teacher. She has some excellent teaching methods. I spoke more Portuguese in class today than I have since I began learning the language. There was some awkward racial stuff but I think that will happen a lot while I'm here so I won't sweat it...yet. The class on Brazilian culture proved to be much harder. Picture a one hour lecture on modernism in a language that you don't really understand. I had an awful headache by the end. After class my host mom picked me up and we went home. I took two pain meds and "napped" until 7:30pm. Oh I also discovered today that I chipped a molar sometime this afternoon. It's sort of sharp but otherwise I don't notice it. I should go to a dentist. I'll see if CIEE can help me tomorrow.
Now because of my odd sleep schedule I'm not entirely sure when to go to bed. That being said I am feeling tired again. I'm not exactly sure why I'm so exhausted. I think it's probably the heat. I've been watching American television with Portuguese subtitles all night. It's great. Super helpful. The best are music videos because lyrics are typically very simple.
On a final note, today my dad signed an e-mail "Tchau!" So very sweet.
Beijos,
B
They live in a beautiful peach and teal home with a garden in the front. Their house is full of art and contemporary furniture and the kitchen has 50's style black and white tile. My room is small but very comfortable (Barbie sheets!). I have a wonderful view of rooftops from my window and there's also a pomegranate tree (too far to reach).
Today was my first day of class. I love my Portuguese teacher. She has some excellent teaching methods. I spoke more Portuguese in class today than I have since I began learning the language. There was some awkward racial stuff but I think that will happen a lot while I'm here so I won't sweat it...yet. The class on Brazilian culture proved to be much harder. Picture a one hour lecture on modernism in a language that you don't really understand. I had an awful headache by the end. After class my host mom picked me up and we went home. I took two pain meds and "napped" until 7:30pm. Oh I also discovered today that I chipped a molar sometime this afternoon. It's sort of sharp but otherwise I don't notice it. I should go to a dentist. I'll see if CIEE can help me tomorrow.
Now because of my odd sleep schedule I'm not entirely sure when to go to bed. That being said I am feeling tired again. I'm not exactly sure why I'm so exhausted. I think it's probably the heat. I've been watching American television with Portuguese subtitles all night. It's great. Super helpful. The best are music videos because lyrics are typically very simple.
On a final note, today my dad signed an e-mail "Tchau!" So very sweet.
Beijos,
B
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Day 1
I'm here and everything is wonderful. Really.
I keep comparing this to the first week of college. Remember how time felt like it was flying by because so much was happening? I feel like I've been here much longer than 1 day.
CIEE has put us up in a very nice hotel for orientation. There's wonderful art on the walls. This morning I woke up late and as I was reaching for a pair of jeans and a sweater I remembered that I was in Brazil. What a fantastic realization.
Yesterday was a lot of meeting people and eating. We went to a buffet for lunch and I was surprised to find that I had no clue what anything was. I could tell what was meat and what was pasta and what was vegetables but I couldn't really read the signs or make out specific flavors. Although everything was delicious that was definitely my "Shit, I'm in Brazil for real" moment. After lunch I went and found Angela.
There are no words to express how good it is to have a close friend nearby at moments like these. We hugged and hugged like we hadn't seen each other in years. Interestingly enough, Angela is rooming with a girl who goes to MU and is friends with my friend since middle school, Noah. They're both so comforting to have here--two "hometown" connections.
Later that evening we did some orientation stuff and had dinner and then the CIEE people told us they were taking us dancing. We walked about two miles to a club which wasn't open yet at 11:00pm (we are not in Minnesota anymore) and then got cabs and headed back to a place closer to the hotel. The walk ended up not being in vain because we got a great walking tour of the city. The club was fun and we headed back around 1 which was perfect for our 7am wake up call this morning. Today is mostly more orientation. I'm meeting my host family tonight which is a little scary even though they seem very nice.
I probably wont write everyday but I think that it's important to write at the beginning at least.
Tchau!
-B
I keep comparing this to the first week of college. Remember how time felt like it was flying by because so much was happening? I feel like I've been here much longer than 1 day.
CIEE has put us up in a very nice hotel for orientation. There's wonderful art on the walls. This morning I woke up late and as I was reaching for a pair of jeans and a sweater I remembered that I was in Brazil. What a fantastic realization.
Yesterday was a lot of meeting people and eating. We went to a buffet for lunch and I was surprised to find that I had no clue what anything was. I could tell what was meat and what was pasta and what was vegetables but I couldn't really read the signs or make out specific flavors. Although everything was delicious that was definitely my "Shit, I'm in Brazil for real" moment. After lunch I went and found Angela.
There are no words to express how good it is to have a close friend nearby at moments like these. We hugged and hugged like we hadn't seen each other in years. Interestingly enough, Angela is rooming with a girl who goes to MU and is friends with my friend since middle school, Noah. They're both so comforting to have here--two "hometown" connections.
Later that evening we did some orientation stuff and had dinner and then the CIEE people told us they were taking us dancing. We walked about two miles to a club which wasn't open yet at 11:00pm (we are not in Minnesota anymore) and then got cabs and headed back to a place closer to the hotel. The walk ended up not being in vain because we got a great walking tour of the city. The club was fun and we headed back around 1 which was perfect for our 7am wake up call this morning. Today is mostly more orientation. I'm meeting my host family tonight which is a little scary even though they seem very nice.
I probably wont write everyday but I think that it's important to write at the beginning at least.
Tchau!
-B
Saturday, January 2, 2010
Update
My flight arrived to Chicago on Wednesday morning almost 30 minutes late. As a result I missed the block of time for visa inquiries at the consulate but knew I could return on Thursday and tried not to sweat it.
On Thursday at the consulate I sat in the oddly sterile waiting room with my heart frantically beating out of my chest. I think I knew things were going to be okay when I heard the guy ahead of me (one of four, middle aged White guys traveling to Brazil "on business") go up to the window and say "Hey I need a visa to Brazil and I'm leaving on January 9th. Can I get one by then?" and the woman replied "Yeah, that shouldn't be a problem." I remember being annoyed with him and the ease with which he asked the question and I still don't understand why anyone who intentionally wait last minute to apply for a visa.
Once I got to the window myself, I explained the situation, the lady took my application and then told me "You're leaving on January 8th? We'll send it either on Monday or Tuesday. Is that okay?" And that was it. So, God granted, I should have my visa by Wednesday and leave on time.
Currently I'm in Minnesota buying my time until January 3rd when a flight back to Missouri was cheaper. Despite all of the last minute traveling and stress, I've actually had a lot of fun the past few days.Go figure.
7 days and counting.
-B
On Thursday at the consulate I sat in the oddly sterile waiting room with my heart frantically beating out of my chest. I think I knew things were going to be okay when I heard the guy ahead of me (one of four, middle aged White guys traveling to Brazil "on business") go up to the window and say "Hey I need a visa to Brazil and I'm leaving on January 9th. Can I get one by then?" and the woman replied "Yeah, that shouldn't be a problem." I remember being annoyed with him and the ease with which he asked the question and I still don't understand why anyone who intentionally wait last minute to apply for a visa.
Once I got to the window myself, I explained the situation, the lady took my application and then told me "You're leaving on January 8th? We'll send it either on Monday or Tuesday. Is that okay?" And that was it. So, God granted, I should have my visa by Wednesday and leave on time.
Currently I'm in Minnesota buying my time until January 3rd when a flight back to Missouri was cheaper. Despite all of the last minute traveling and stress, I've actually had a lot of fun the past few days.Go figure.
7 days and counting.
-B
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